By Thomas Cytrynowicz

Tenzin and I first met in 2019. She had just turned 11, and I had come to stay a few days at her family's guesthouse in the village.

I quickly got along with her parents and asked if I could spend some time taking photos of the four of them: Tashi, the dad, Dolma, the mom, Tenzin, and her older sister Ringzin.

They happily agreed and decided to wear their traditional outfits for the occasion, the ones they wear for weddings and other official ceremonies.

It was a sweet family portrait, and I brought a print of it with me when I finally made it back to the Spiti Valley, six years later.

Family portrait of Tashi, Dolma, Tenzin and Ringzin in traditional outfits, Lalung, Spiti Valley, 2019

The original family photo in 2019, the first time we met.

Of course, Tenzin had grown. The child I remembered was now a teenager, home for a short while before heading back to school, away from the village.

We made new photographs together, and she wore her new dress, proudly.

When Emi and I returned again in the summer of 2026, a series started to take shape, almost on its own, from the little time we spend together whenever we visit the guesthouse.

By now we know the ritual. While we move things around in the living room to make space for the camera, she changes into the outfit she has chosen, always a dress with intricate patterns.

Tenzin and her parents, Dolma and Tashi, getting ready for a family portrait in their kitchen, 2025
Tenzin and her parents, Dolma and Tashi, getting ready for a family portrait in 2025.
Tenzin adjusting her earring in a mirror before a portrait, 2026
Tenzin adjusting her earring before taking a photo together in 2026.

Her photos have slowly become something more than simple portraits. They are a record of time passing, of her growing up and becoming an adult while everything around her moves and changes too.

Portrait of Tenzin aged 11 in a pink traditional dress and hat, 2019
2019
Portrait of Tenzin as a teenager in a golden traditional dress and pearl necklace, 2025
2025
Portrait of Tenzin in 2026 in a dark patterned dress and coral necklace
2026

Taking the same photo of the village six years apart, almost to the day, I noticed how much less snow there was on the mountains behind it. Another sign of the warming of the Spiti Valley, like everywhere else in the world.

For a village that lives almost entirely off agriculture, what does that mean for the future?

Tenzin doesn't know yet what's ahead of her. Maybe she'll leave the valley to study, like so many young people here when it's time for university.

And if these photos have become a record for me, one that might someday tell a wider story of personal and community change, they are first and foremost a record for the family. My pictures are now part of their archive, and it made me quietly happy to see that first photo from 2019 framed and hanging in the kitchen.

The 2019 family portrait, framed on a table in the family kitchen in Lalung

The photo I took in 2019 is now framed in their kitchen.

That, to me, is the real beauty of photography: it's something to print, and something to give.
Thomas Cytrynowicz

As the seasons pass and Tenzin wears a new dress each time, I can't wait to go back and make another portrait together.

This is what comes from returning to a place, again and again over the years. A photograph stops being just a moment frozen in time and becomes part of a story.

Tashi and Dolma posing for a portrait in their home in Lalung
Tashi and Dolma pose for a portrait in their home.
The whole family in traditional outfits in their living room, 2025
The whole family in 2025.
On video

Tenzin over the years

Thomas Cytrynowicz
Written by Thomas Cytrynowicz Photographer & expedition leader